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Written by Debbie Lomas on February 7, 2023

Using the Invisible Zipper Foot

Invisible zippers are the least noticeable of all zippers. As the name implies, the zipper is hidden in a seam, becoming virtually invisible. This makes it a popular choice for elegant clothing sewn with expensive materials, like evening wear although it’s equally appropriate for skirts, blouses, and other everyday clothing items. Invisible zips are easily sewn with the PFAFF Invisible Zipper Foot!

invisible zipper foot close up

Instructions for use: 

1 - Use the marking pen to mark the length of the zipper on the right side of the fabric, on both sides of the opening. The zipper should be at least 2 cm to 3 cm (¾ to 1 ¼ inch) longer than the opening. 

2 - Attach the special Invisible Zipper Foot and select a straight stitch, centre needle position and stitch length to 2.5 to 3.0 mm. 

3 - Open the zipper and flatten the coil slightly with your thumb, so that the seam line between the tape and the coil becomes visible. Never iron the zipper.

invisible zipper foot illustration

4 - Place the right half of the zipper onto the right side of the opening, with right sides of the zipper and fabric together. The coil should lie directly on the seam line, starting about 1.5 to 2 cm (5/6 to ¾ inch) below the upper edge of the fabric. Pin in place, if desired. Make sure that the bottom end of the zipper extends 2 cm to 3 cm (¾ to 1 ¼ inch) beyond the bottom end of the opening. (ill. A)

5 - Carefully press the teeth slightly to the right and lower the zipper foot, so that the coil lies in the groove to the right of the needle.

6 - Starting at the top, sew the zipper in place, stopping at the previously marked end of the opening. Tie off the end of the seam. Close the zipper. (ill. B,C)

7 - Place the second zipper tape on the left side of the opening, on the right side of the fabric. Make sure that both coils are level.

8 - Pin the zipper in place. Open the zipper.

9 - Carefully press the teeth slightly to the left and lower the Zipper Foot, so that the coil lies in the groove to the left of the needle.

10 - Starting at the top, sew the zipper in place, stopping at the previously marked end of the opening. Tie off the end of the seam. Close the zipper.

11 - Finally, sew the seam below the zipper, starting at the bottom and working up. Attach the standard Zipper Foot so that the presser foot clamp and the foot are to the right of centre. Move the needle to the right. (ill. D)

12 - Pull the loose bottom end of the zipper toward the seam allowances and stitch as close as possible up to the last stitches of the zipper seams.

13 - Press the seam open.

TIP: If the zipper is too long, sew over the end of the coil with a straight stitch or a closely spaced zigzag stitch, approx. 2 cm (¾ inch) below the bottom end of the opening. Cut off the excess zipper and finish the raw edge with a small piece of fabric.

The part number for the Invisible Zipper Foot is P8204740-96 and is compatible on machine model C, D, E, F, G, J, K, L. Not sure what machine model you have? Check out the Machine Compatibility Chart

Don’t forget to share your projects and follow us on our Facebook page, Pfaff Australia or Instagram, tagging @pfaff_sewing_australia and using the hashtag #pfaffingaround

Article written by Debbie Lomas
Debbie started her career working in a fabric store at the age of 20. She quickly moved into selling machines and teaching. After working with VSM for a number of years, she travelled to many craft shows around Australia teaching a variety of classes including the new love of her life, quilting and patchwork.

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